Rayni Risher

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Longpont Abbey

February 23, 2020 by admin Leave a Comment

On our last trip to France, Joel and I spent several days exploring the Champagne region of France. On our two hour drive back to Paris we passed through numerous small villages; at one point happening upon a beautiful, though decrepit, church. So, we pulled over to take a closer look.

The actual church was in ruins and seemed to have artillery damage to it, which wouldn’t be uncommon for the area. There was a larger building behind a wall connected to the church but all the doors were locked so we couldn’t get very far.

Even in its disrepair, we marveled at this beautiful sight and exulted in the fact that we had happened upon it. That’s one of many joyful things about spending time in France…there’s so much history around every corner; even in the middle of “nowhere”.

At the time I didn’t keep track of the village the church was in, and I have wondered all year about the history of that church.  Finally, I decided to attempt to “Sherlock Holmes it”, piecing together several bits of information until I finally found it online!

I discovered that the church we saw is Abbaye Notre-Dame de Longpont (Longpont Abbey), located at the edge of the Retz Forest in the village of Longpont.

And what an interesting history it has!

Founded in 1131, it was home to the Cistercian order of monks and nuns and was in use until 1793. After the French Revolution it became disused and began to fall into decay, however the real damage came from the German invasion in 1918.

In fact, the fighting was so fierce that the entire village of Longpont was almost totally destroyed!

This photo shows the destruction.

More about the battle that destroyed the city…

“Longpoint was captured on May 28, 1918, by the 28th Reserve Division of General Von Boehn’s army. But the French fought fiercely and recaptured it two days later. On June 3, the Germans made a determined effort to gain the Villers-Cotterets Forest and succeeded in retaking Longpont and other villages at its edge, but gained no foothold in the forest. They were finally driven from Longpont on July 13th. Five days afterward, before the great counter-offensive they fell back rapidly from this whole region, the dashing attack of the second American Division being delivered only about a mile north of Longpont. A storm center in such terrible backward and forward fighting, the almost total destruction of the once charming village may be readily understood.”

The village has since been rebuilt and it’s lovely and quaint. The abbey now contains a hotel where they host weddings and other events throughout the year.

What a delight to happen upon this piece of history while rolling through the French countryside.

 

Photo courtesy of Rêve de Châteaux.

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Filed Under: Culture Tagged With: champagne, Church, european history, france, french countryside, French history, historic churches, history, longpont abbey, world history, wwII

Delighting in the Vineyards of Champagne

April 29, 2018 by admin Leave a Comment

 


“Too much of anything is bad, but too much champagne is just right.”
–F. Scott Fitzgerald

Last spring Joel and I drove 100 miles east of Paris to stay for several days in the Champagne region of France. We both quickly fell in love with the area!

We stayed in a lovely gîte overlooking the vineyards in the small and charming village of Hautvillers. This village was home to Dom Pérignon in the 17th century, the now-famous monk who was one of the fathers of the method in which champagne is made.

There was a conviviality and joy that seemed to fill the air!

Most people tend to drink champagne only at celebrations and parties, although I personally think anytime is the right time to drink champagne! (In fact I’m currently drinking a glass as I write this).

Even though there are more than 300 champagne villages in the region with several thousand champagne producers and 84,000 acres of vineyards, it feels as if everyone is united under the common banner of making quality champagne to be shared in people’s happiest life moments.

We enjoyed visiting several champagne houses and their vineyards. One of those was Lasseaux & Fils. Vincent Lasseaux was so gracious to spend the whole morning with us as we tasted their range of champagnes and journeyed out into their vineyards.

The small, family owned champagne house was established in 1970. We drove through lush green forest trees and field after field of vibrant yellow flowers as we made the short drive from Hautvillers to La Neuville-aux-Larris, the tiny village (only 200 inhabitants) where they’re located.

The Lasseauxs share that “the limestone subsoil and south facing vineyards provide us ideal conditions to produce some of the best pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay grapes necessary to our limited production.” It was a wonderful morning exploring one of the many talented family champagne houses who produce small batch, high quality champagnes.

Champagne felt like home. I can’t wait to return!

Did you know...

Champagne is a sparkling wine produced from grape varietals in the Champagne region of France; the main grapes used being pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay.

Some use the term champagne as a generic term for sparkling wine, but in most countries, it is illegal to officially label any product champagne unless it comes from the Champagne region and is produced under the strict rules of the appellation using the Méthode Champenoise (Champagne Method), which includes secondary fermentation of the wine in the bottle to create carbonation.

If you’re interested in Champagne I highly recommend watching the delightful documentary A Year in Champagne.

 

Joel (in the pink shirt) in the vineyards with brothers Vincent and Baptiste Lasseaux. This is their plot of pinot meunier grapes.They gave us a lesson in spring vine pruning.

Here are some of the lovely champagnes we tasted, paired with delicious charcuterie and cheese from the local city Reims. These champagnes are (L to R) Bled Rosé (100% pinot meunier), Vintage 2011 Millésime (chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier), Brut, and Rosé Classique (100% pinot meunier),  

Joel and Vincent Lasseaux.

We brought back a bottle of their 2010 Blanc de Blancs Champagne to enjoy at our gîte. The cork was hand tied with string, a method that was used hundreds of years ago.

 

Flower fields on the way to La Neuville-aux-Larris.

And…bouncing through the Lasseaux’s vineyards in Vincent’s vintage French Army 4×4. Just a slightly bumpy ride!

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Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: champagne, champagne lasseaux, chardonnay, dom perignon, europe, france, lasseaux et fils, pinot meunier, sommelier, travel, vineyard, wine, wine tasting

The Ornate Pont Alexandre III

May 10, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Though I’ve traveled to Paris several times, I’ve never visited the Pont Alexandre III until our recent trip.

(“Pont” is the French word for “bridge”)

The famously beautiful and much photographed bridge created in the Beaux-Arts style was named after Tsar Alexander III who cemented a new diplomatic relationship between France and Russia in 1892.

Classified as an historic monument, the bridge was inaugurated at the 1900 World’s Fair. The construction is a feat of engineering with its 20 foot high single span steel arch.

Crossing over the River Seine, the bridge links the famed Champs-Élysées boulevard on the Right Bank with Les Invalides (the site of Napoleon’s tomb) on the Left Bank.

With its Art Nouveau décor you’ll find lions, nymphs, maidens, cherubs, fish, and more on the bridge. It also has a lovely view of the Eiffel Tower in the distance and of course the river with all of its boat traffic gliding underneath.

Take a moment to take it all in if you find yourself in Paris!

 

And at night…

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Filed Under: Culture Tagged With: bridge, europe, france, paris, pont alexandre iii, river, seine, travel

The Joys of Traveling Alone

July 1, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Bright Giverny Church Graveyard“I could live here” I thought, as I sat on a low stone wall, looking out past the church steeple to the sweeping green hills beyond it; tiny pebbles crunching underfoot.

Yes, I happened to be sitting all alone in a graveyard in a tiny village in northern France…but that’s a minor detail.

How did I get there?

First let me begin here…Two years ago I had the opportunity to travel to England rather last minute for a conference. I flew into London, spent the night, then took a train up to Yorkshire for several days for the conference. Then I trained back down to London where I spent a number of days enjoying the city since I was already all the way over there.

I went alone on the trip and didn’t know anyone at the conference I was going to; or in the country for that matter. But none of that bothered me.

Before I left, one of my girlfriends told me how brave I was.

Brave? Why?

What’s so brave about going on a splendid adventure to a country I’ve visited before…and where they speak English to boot?

Still, she couldn’t believe I was doing it…alone.

The first time I traveled anywhere overseas alone was during my very first trip overseas when I was in my mid-20s. I went with a friend to Ireland for a week and then I left her and jaunted over to London for a few days before taking the Eurostar through the Chunnel to Paris.

England is not exactly a scary place to travel to alone but still, it was a wonderful and enlightening experience to be there on my own. Growing up I had a big interest in British culture…England especially…and I fell in love with it on my first trip there.

To me, there’s something wonderful about arriving in a country you’ve never been to and having to figure it all out on your own.  

Transport, money exchange, finding the hotel, learning to navigate the underground, finding your way around the city to all the places you want to visit, finding places to eat. It was fantastic and I loved it!

Traveling on my own, especially to another country, reminds me that I am brave, strong, and competent. I can handle it.

Since that first trip, I’ve gotten to travel overseas a couple more times on my own and I always enjoy it. It’s great to explore new areas and find your way around a large city in another language, too, when the opportunity arises.

Now back to that graveyard…

That was my first trip to France. I was staying with a friend and her husband, who were both working during the week. So I was on my own each day to explore Paris for the first time.

I decided to take the train to the small village of Giverny to see Monet’s home and extensive gardens.

I negotiated buying my ticket, speaking solely in French, and took the hour long train trip 46 miles north west from Paris to Vernon; and from there a short bus ride to Giverny which is nestled in the Upper Normandy region. Giverny has approximately 500 residents and there are many gorgeous stone homes with so much history.

I spent the entire day in the village. Lots of time in Monet’s gardens. I also ate lunch at a small café and had the best homemade pistachio ice cream I’ve ever eaten, from a local selling it on the side of the road. And I spent plenty of time wandering around the village before heading back to Paris in the evening.

That’s how I found my way to the small church and the graveyard perched on a hill right behind it.

As I sat in that graveyard I thought to myself, I could live here; I would love to live in one of these old stone homes and become more fluent in French and get to know my neighbors.

Fast forward to today, years later. My husband and I both love France and we do want to move to the country at some point. But I quite like that fact that even though I have enjoyed trips to France with Joel, I first got to begin to discover the country on my own, before I ever knew him.

I decided on my own that I wanted to live in the French countryside long before we ever decided it together.

And that makes me smile.

So please, think twice before passing up the opportunity to travel. Even if you’re alone! You never know what you’ll discover about yourself while you’re discovering a new city.

*The picture above is from that very grave yard in Giverny. Although I have a photo just like it, this picture is one that I found online, since all of my pictures from that trip are on this very old thing called film. 😉

 

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Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: Be brave, france, giverny, london, monet, paris, travel, travel alone

Enjoying the Village of Cotignac, France

January 4, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Nestled in the picturesque region of the VAR department in Provence, France sits a small village called Cotignac. Despite only boasting slightly over 2,000 residents, it has the highest amount of ex-pats than other local villages, with more than 30 nationalities represented.

In the Fall of 2013, Joel and I spent two weeks in a lovely rented home that overlooked the village. We love France and always look forward to visiting. This was our first time to Provence.

I first learned about Cotignac when I started following Provence Living. Initially I was drawn in by their vibrant pictures of colorful fruits and vegetables, linen scarves and woven bags from the weekly outdoor market.

With Joel’s interest in wine (we met up with winemaker acquaintances who live in the village) and our mutual affection for France, we decided to head to Provence to take in the lovely region via the tiny village of Cotignac.

If you’re more interested in quaint village life than laying on the beach everyday on the Cote d’Azur, a place like Cotignac can be a great home base. We mostly ate, drank, strolled around the village and enjoyed the breathtaking views. But we also explored other nearby cities. (More on that in future travel posts). And the Riviera is only a 1.5 hour drive away.

Here are some pictures from our time in the village of Cotignac.

Market Day
Cotignac Market Collage

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J R Cotignac Collage

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Filed Under: Eat, Travel Tagged With: cotignac, france, provence, travel

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